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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.